Day 3 - Vila do Conde to Esposende

 

Today is a combination of different kinds of paths being offered up by the Camino. We started out on pavement getting out of the town, turned towards the seaside still on pavement, then onto more boardwalks and finally dirt pathways closer to Esposende.  The sun is beating down on us early. So it was a hard slog. We still make good time so it is very encouraging.

We thought it may be difficult to get two stamps each day that is required for the Camino certificate. Not so, there are places that would do it for free and cafes and albergues are all equipped to do it. We have been getting three or more stamps each day.  

We had the Camino all mapped out but ended up on an official route in between the ones the I knew about. We were following the way markers until we got close to where we needed to cross a bridge. We looked at our Google instructions and figured that the way markers are leading us to the long way. At the end of the day, we thought we didn't need that so we followed Google. We ended on roads with lots of traffic and sidewalks interrupted by parked cars. Eventually we got to the bridge and found that other pilgrims were emerging from a park below the bridge and only needed to come up the stairs to cross the bridge. So lesson learned. Google may seem faster but the Camino will lead you to a safer way.

We are staying in the Sleep&Go just outside of Esposende. That cuts down on the distance to reach the albergue but the downside is that is in a relatively remote site. Supermarket is at least 16 min away.  Restaurants can be as close as 7 min. We were offered free use of bicycles to do grocery shopping. Very nice, clean and modern albergue with just about everything except proximity to useful things as I said. The best though is a pool available to anyone. I didn't use it but I am sure many people appreciate it.

Day 2 - Matosinhos to Vila do Conde

 

We started off from where we left off yesterday by taking the metro from our albergue. We experienced something that never happened to us in Europe: ticket checks. On our way towards Matosinhos, at one station, we saw a massive number of security personnel mixing with a number of policia. We were wondering what was going on because none of them look like they are actively trying to catch anyone. A few stops later, a few of the security personnel were walking through our train cars checking everyone's tickets. I remember reading that the fine would be significant if caught without a valid ticket. That is supposed to make up for a simple honest system. Fortunately for us, it appears that we knew what we were doing.

Today was actually a good walking day with warm, overcast sky until late in the morning. The way was entirely next to the ocean, starting with pavement but mostly boardwalks. Unfortunately near the end, a stretch of the boardwalks was overrun by sand, like walking on the beach. That was tough going. Other than that, there is a nice and quiet feel along the entire way. There a fair number of pilgrims along the way but it never felt busy.

I have to say that I am quite impressed with this significant piece of infrastructure enjoyed by everyone. There are historical facts and biodiversity information along the way. On the other hand, we were disappointed that there are a lot of eateries not open. We read the sign outside one restaurant that they are closed on Thursdays. That explains it.

The way markers are not as complete as Camino Frances but with this stretch being basically straight line along the water, that is not a big deal.

The day turns out to be long because our lack of practice 5 years from the last time we walk; adding the fact that we all are 5 years older. However, we made it to the albergue joining the line up about 45 min before opening time at 3 pm. We got our beds but the late comers were offered other, presumably better, accommodation for 25 euros each. We paid 10 euros each and are fine with that. We found that the municipal albergues along Camino Portugese typically have fewer beds. The infrastructure has not caught to the demand yet to accommodate the increasing popularity of this route.

Pilgrim menu, at least in Vila do Conde, is a little different compared to Spain. At 9 euros, it goes without drinks, with only one course of meat, with coffee or tea at the end but no dessert. Portions of the main course, however, are generous.

I hope we can overcome the foot problems we are already suffering from and also get acclimatized to the walking quickly. Tomorrow will be another long day but it should be more relaxing knowing that we have a confirmed reservation for beds in the albergue.

Day 1 - Porto to Matosinhos

 

It is a bright sunny day. A bit breezy in the morning but already in the high teens in the morning. 

We wanted to start from the official start at the Cathedral Se do Seo so we took the metro to Sao Bento in the morning. We figured out that the cathedral opens at 9 and it is a good thing that we got our credential from the albergue so we didn't have to wait for it to open.

The first little way was a bit chaotic but with some mapping ahead of time, some arrows and a very helpful local, we had little problem navigating to the water and from there, it is just a matter of following the coastline.

The coastline is very nice as advertised. It may seem busy to some but we are in the middle of the city and many locals are using the coastline also. We are happy to be walking among locals. As for pilgrims, that does feel like we are seeing them all the time. Not sure what it is like on Camino Frances now but it feels as busy here on Portugues now as Frances a few years back.

We chose to walk to Matosinhos the first day. It is a relatively short walk of about 11 km as I was anticipating some delay at the Cathedral and I see It as a preparation for longer days to come. Turned out that there was no delay at the cathedral because it has not open yet but it is an excellent day to remind our minds and muscle what it is like to have a long walking day under the hot sun.

We took our time and still arrived
at Matosinhos around noon, had a leisurely lunch at the market and took the metro back to the albergue.  Tomorrow we will get back to Matosinhos via metro and really get going from there.

It was a good relaxing day of walking in excellent weather, almost all according to plan. What more can we ask for.

2024 Camino Portuguese Coastal - Travel day

 

We are off to a flying start to our camino. This is my third start of a camino. The first was the most exciting partly because of the unknowns and also because we had never done anything remotely like this both in terms of levels of physical exertion and adventure. Looking back, we are happy we started doing it when we were younger. However there is always excitement going on a Camino.

Of course we need a flying start to get to Lisbon first. For the first time over the last little while, flight was right on time and we arrived a bit early. All good. The first delay, if you want to call it that, is the lineup to go through immigration. With my brother not a Canadian and not qualified to go to the electronic passport line, we went with him to the "All passports" line with a serious number of zigzags. Somehow despite the long line, it felt completely organized with the line always moving along. All told, it took 45 minutes but it all seemed acceptable. Perhaps if I was rushing to a connection, I would feel differently.

The plan was to get a sim card from Vodafone before leaving the airport. That should have been quite doable given the time but the fact that I hate lineups.  The first kiosk we saw was actually in the baggage claim area. There was a lineup and only one person serving customers so I held out for the one in the terminal. No luck. The lineup was longer with two people serving. So we skipped it and went straight to the Metro station. I was surprised to see another lineup for the metro tickets but there is no other option for this one. Fortunately this also seemed organized.

We got to the train station with time to spare. We saw a Lyca Mobile sales point but I was holding out for Vodafone simply because I have researched it.

The train was right on time leaving the station for Porto but somehow it managed to get into a 15 min delay. That actually could have been critical because we were told by the albergue that they would hold our reservation until 6 pm and we were cutting it close. Somehow we wasted the most time finding the metro station from the train station and vice versa despite they are supposedly at the same place. Finally we made it with 10 min to spare and the hospitaleros are super nice and I doubt that they would kick us off even if we happened to be late 

All in all, we did alright and are very happy to be here. Looking forward to our start tomorrow.

Courtyard

Epilogue

Travel Day

Today was a wind-up day. We left the albergue in Leon at 8 am. Such luxury. The albergue was actually very good. Clean and modern facilities. The hospitalera was extremely helpful in providing all the necessary information, including bus routes because we are so far from the center of action. We did not actually use it but the effort is well appreciated.

We got to Plaza Major and the Catedral and spend some very relaxing time strolling around waiting for our 243 pm train to Santiago de Compostela.

The Catedral was on the main Camino route and we saw many pilgrims walking past. When they said Buen Camino and we said it back. We feel like cheating a little bit because we are not on the Camino anymore. Saw a few people we met before. And wouldn't you know it, while we were sitting outside having lunch, we saw Yoss and Nanette on the tour train. They passed in a flash but we did see each other and waved goodbye.

Train station in Leon has moved to across the road and the train was a bit delayed but no problem. Got to the albergue, got the beds and booked a tour to Finisterre and Muxia for tomorrow. Everything worked perfectly.  All my worries at the beginning have been wiped out. Just hope that I don't jinx the rest of it.

Did not get to sit down with him again, he is too busy

Finisterre and Muxia

We were lucky to be able to book the tour the night before. The tour was not full so maybe they are lucky to have 4 more customers. Anyhow, because this is a Sunday, if there was no tour and with the fresh market and the supermarkets closed, we wouldn't have much to do. Now we can shop on Monday and cook ourselves a good dinner.

The tour was the same as three years ago. In fact, we think we had the same tour guide who is excellent. At the end of the tour, we got dropped off at the city center. We saw a big crowd moving towards Alameda Park and were drawn to it. It turned out to be a huge carnival going on with lots of rides, mostly for kids. We hit the festival day in Santiago de Compostela right on. Afterwards, we walked over to the Catedral, looking for food along the way. The Catedral looks much nicer now with the scaffolding gone.  Dinner at the restaurant across from the Post Office. Not spectacular.

Last Day in Santiago de Compostela

We were hoping to get fresh seafood for dinner today now that the weekend is over. But it wasn't meant to be. The market is surely open on Monday but for some reason, all the seafood stalls remain closed other than frozen seafoods.

We walked down to the city center to look for breakfast. That is not hard to find. There are bars and restaurants everywhere. Went and visited the Catedral again. This time going in. Three years ago, they were renovating the outside. This time, they are doing the inside. Never saw a complete cathedral. May have to come back again.  Shopped for tomorrow's breakfast at our favourite pastry shop and then shop for souvenirs. Walked over to the market and it is still only late morning. With no fresh seafood, we settled with pork chops.

Got into contact with our Airbnb host in Madrid. Everything is set. Will leave for Madrid in the middle of night. So it is goodbye Camino.